Monday, May 15, 2023

A day in Basel

Having a B&B with a kitchen again allows me to have oatmeal for breaky which is lovely. We headed out the door about 9:30 - our usual starting time on this trip - to spend the day in Basel, a medieval town in the northeast corner of CH. 

The car park near the centrum was only a few minutes drive from where we are staying. We're pretty much pros again at the "mechanics" of travel - certainly a long way from where we were when we first arrived here. The information centre was about a 10 minute walk. I was able to finish my shopping for gifts for the grandkids there. Always a a nice feeling.

There were five walking tours through the heart of the city. We had some trouble downloading the app with the commentary for the tours but finally got it. For the first time on this trip, it felt like we were in Europe - meaning: it felt very familiar to the other trips we've taken. The history, old buildings, narrow winding streets. So nice!

We spent about five hours sightseeing and enjoying the amazing weather - in the low 70's and mostly sunny. Our first stop was Munster Cathedral. The very first church was built there in the early 800's and the current building was built in the late 1400's. An earthquake destroyed the previous structure. The gothic architecture on the exterior was stunning. In the crypt were tombs from bishops from as early as 820. The church was Catholic but now is Evangelical Reformed.

We did our best to follow one of the walking tours but it was really challenging. The streets go wherever they want with no pattern. At one point we ended up in a market square with lots of "food trucks." Lunch was the best fish and chips. Right beside the marketplace was the town hall - an incredibly beautiful building that's been in use since the 1300's. 

This is the oldest city that we've ever been in. Many of the homes/shops were from the 1400's. Cobbled streets. There was a lot of construction going on - replacing pipes (?) under the roads. Back hoes are able to have their buckets literally a few feet from pedestrian's heads. It's up to the people to pay attention.

We wandered up and down streets, crossed a bridge over the Rhine River, and found our way back to the car. A lot of walking today. I do need to mention the traffic. In the old part of the city there are very few cars but a ton of buses and streetcars. At one point, there were four of these that could be seen by looking straight ahead. The streetcars are 100' long. No kidding. With so many of them, the roads going every which way, and crosswalks everywhere, to me it felt like Russian roulette trying to cross a street. Interesting thing about the crosswalks. When someone wants to cross, out they go. Bikes, cars, etc. are just expected to stop for them. Streetcars obviously can't stop so people do need to pay attention to them. We saw a man almost get hit. He didn't even look before stepping into the crosswalk so he didn't see the car the barely missed him.

Next stop was the spot where France, Germany, and Switzerland meet. It was a bit tricky to find. The "meeting point" is in the water. And again the question comes to mind: How was this monitored before the EU existed?

One last stop at Aldi where we picked up some food for supper and breakfast. The bakery section at Aldi is phenomenal - quiches, all sorts of fresh breads/rolls, European fruit tarts.... Maybe the Cedar Aldi will have the same thing. 😁

Supper (mini pizzas - I know, more carbs) on the back patio in the sun. Dave went for a bit of a walk. The rain finally started so reading commenced. Off to our final stop tomorrow - Geneva where we'll focus on John Calvin and the Reformation.

One thing I learned today: Shortly after the Reformation took place, highly decorated/designed buildings were forbidden which resulted in rather bland architecture for a period. Another example of the church meaning well but.....

One new thing I experienced today: Seeing a small boat attached to a cable that spanned the river. The current was so strong that the only way to easily, and fairly quickly, get from one side of the river to the other is by being sure the boat is tethered to the wire. It takes people from one side of the river to the other - about 500'. Also on the river were massive barges. Whether going against or with the strong current, both required very skilled pilots.

Most powerful moment of the day: Powerful isn't the ideal word here but it did evoke a strong emotional response in me. When we first arrived in Geneva, there was graffiti on every barrier along the sides of the roads. It was most annoying - and ugly. Today, in the heart of this beautiful town on houses from the 1300 - 1500's, houses that are very well cared for, there was graffiti. Not on a lot of houses but still. It's infuriating for me to see and I'm sure much more so for the home owners. One house had the original shutters from the 1400's - pealed paint and all - with some graffiti and stickers on them. Stickers ruin all sorts of things here. You can never "fix" those shutters so they're free of the "mess" and yet are still original. I'm still upset thinking about it!!

One pleasurable experience: While we sat in an outdoor café beside the Rhine River in the delightfully warm sunshine having coffee/hot chocolate and apple strudel, a duck walked through. He stood by our table until it was clear he wasn't going to get anything and then moved on.

1 comment: