Sunday, May 14, 2023

Sistrans, Austria to Dachau, Germany

The goal was to get to Dachau Concentration Camp by 12:30 so that we could get two of the 30 spots on the guided tour. While the drive was just over two hours, things take time. So we were up and at it and out of the door by 9:30. 

The drive was a combination of sun, clouds, and some sprinkles. The rain, once again, held off all day! The scenery went from snow capped mountains to flat ground. The car's GPS had been working wonderfully until it decided it had had enough. We were on a very busy stretch of freeway and the GPS made it look like we were driving through fields. The SIM card we bought for Europe sure has come in handy - with this being the most valuable time yet. Pulling up Google maps got us to the camp. Without it.......

While the thermometer said it was in the low 50's, it sure felt colder than that. A shirt and two coats and it still felt "cold." However, I felt guilty for even thinking about being a bit cold when I stood in the camp's massive roll call area (held 30 - 40,000 people) knowing that others had stood here in nothing but pajama like clothes for hours in the dead of winter - unable to move or they'd be shot.

We decided not to be part of the guided tour and got audio tour headsets instead - which was definitely the way to go. We arrived at the camp at 12:30ish and left about 4:30. There aren't words to adequately describe the camp or the emotion felt while being there. I'm not even going to try. I'll just say that we were both very deeply impacted. I'll list the pictures I took with a bit of info for each - in the order I came across things.

  • watchtower at entrance to camp - These were located all around the camp and were always manned with SS and guns.
  • train tracks and platform - Where the people arrived from all over Europe - most to end their days behind the fence.
  • camp commandant's headquarters - Beautiful building just outside the "prisoners camp" - a small part (5 acres) of the entire concentration camp (25 acres). You can only visit the prisoners' camp section of the camp. The rest of the original camp is part of the town and being used for "regular" things.
  • entrance to the prisoners' camp - At this point, prisoners would think this place was going to be quite nice. 
  • a photo of the prisoners welcoming the US troops - It makes you want to cry just looking at it.
  • gate at the entrance which says "work sets you free" - The SS were told that if people couldn't work, they were useless, and therefore needed to be killed.
  • roll call area - It's massive. Truly, breath-takingly massive. Trying to imagine it filled (and it was to overflowing) with prisoners is impossible.
  • the sign that says "never again" (placed well after the war) - May it be so. And yet, evil people continue to do Satan's work on earth.
  • perimeter fence, guard tower, and death zone - Fences were electrified with a high voltage charge. A small ditch was between the fence and 8' of grass - the death zone. If anyone stepped onto the grass, they were killed. Some, who couldn't take it any more, did so or ran to grab the fence.
  • bunks in the bunk houses - There were 30 bunk houses that each held many 100's of prisoners'. Conditions couldn't have been worse. All of the bunk houses were torn down in the mid 1960's at the request of the former prisoners. The cement foundations are all that's left. There were two reconstructed bunk houses.
  • Toilets and wash basins - Hundreds of prisoners had literally a few minutes to use these facilities. Every. Single. Thing. was impossible. And set up that way on purpose. If the stripes on the blankets on the beds in a row of bunks weren't lined up and perfect (for the entire length of many bunks), horrific punishment was the result.
  • camp road - All of the barracks were along this road. Many for prisoners, a library, a brothel (prisoners could go to the brothel where other prisoners would service them), human experimental barracks, etc. The ones closest to the gate were for the staff - library, etc. - and the ones at the farthest end were for the "worst of the worst" - according to the SS's system. Beautiful trees grow along the road so it made for good PR photos - which were needed.
  • exterior of the crematorium - A nice looking building that held untold horrors - including the next three points.
  • cremation ovens - Dead bodies were stacked a room and then taken into the "oven room." Live prisoners were hung in the oven room.
  • gas chamber - Prisoners entered a room where they took off their clothes to get ready for a delousing shower. Next room .......
  • chamber for disinfecting clothes - Prisoners clothes were disinfected in massive chambers - six of them. 
At this point, we were overwhelmed and while there was much more to see in the museum, we just couldn't do it. We did stop at the bookstore and purchased a few books.

Supper, check in at a very modern hotel, and bed. 

One thing I learned today: A massive number of things. Here are a few: 1. People can be unbelievably evil. 2. People can have a tremendous will to live. 3. Hate knows no bounds. 4. Compassion can come at a price.

One new thing I experienced today: Crossing the border between Austria and Germany. Traffic was slowed to 10 kms/hr with the two lanes of traffic having to split and drive on either side of a cement barrier in the middle of the road. There stood two police officers - one with some kind of rifle that I'm sure was very powerful. The officers looked at each car/the passengers as they went past them very slowly. Off to the side was a covered area with about ten more officers - in case they were needed we assumed. While the borders between the EU countries are gone (if you miss the sign, you don't even know you've crossed the border,) this sure felt like a border.

Most powerful moment of the day: So, so many of them. Here's just one. That we were able to walk out of the concentration camp. Literally 100's of thousands of people couldn't even dream of doing that.

One pleasurable experience: Good food. While we've not eaten out a lot, finding good food at restaurants has been challenging. Tonight we ate at a local German restaurant where many people knew each other - having conversations amongst three different tables of people. You could tell some folks were regulars as drinks arrived without being ordered. I had cordon bleu (pork) and Dave had wiener schnitzel (also pork) and it was delicious!

1 comment:

  1. This day was very different from the rest for sure, having been to Auschwitz myself I can understand what you are saying.

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